As a football aficionado, visiting a new city always sparks the same question: "Do they have a team?" So, when I found myself in the enchanting labyrinth of Venice in October 2018, surrounded by gondolas and historic architecture, my thoughts inevitably turned to the beautiful game. I knew nothing of Venetian football, not even if it existed, but the sheer passion Italians have for the sport suggested a local club was a strong possibility. What I uncovered was a tale far more compelling than I could have imagined, a story of resilience, history, and a stadium unlike any other.
From Bankruptcy to Battle-Hardened Survivors: The Arancioneroverdi Spirit
My initial inquiries quickly confirmed my suspicions: Venice does indeed have a football club, Venezia FC, affectionately known as the Arancioneroverdi (orange-black-green). My excitement, however, was quickly tempered by the sobering reality of their recent past. This wasn't a story of glorious victories and overflowing trophy cabinets. Instead, it was a narrative woven with threads of struggle and survival. I learned that Venezia FC had faced the ultimate footballing nightmare not once, not twice, but three times, going bankrupt in 2015. And in the very season of my visit, 2018-19, they were locked in a desperate fight to avoid relegation from Serie B, a battle they ultimately won through a nail-biting play-off. Their only major honour, the Coppa Italia, dates back to 1941 – a testament to a bygone era.
This underdog status, however, only deepened my intrigue. It spoke of a club and a fanbase with an indomitable spirit, one that had weathered financial storms and on-pitch battles, refusing to be extinguished. It's a reminder that football isn't always about silverware; sometimes, it's simply about existing, about fighting another day.
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo: A Century of Stories on the Lagoon
My quest naturally led me to their home ground, the Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo. As I made my way through the narrow Venetian streets, the idea of a football stadium amidst this watery cityscape felt almost surreal. And what a stadium it turned out to be! Opening its gates in 1913, it holds the remarkable distinction of being the second oldest continually used stadium in Italy. Imagine the echoes within those walls, the cheers and groans that have reverberated through a century of football.
The stadium itself is a tribute to a local hero, named after Pier Luigi Penzo, a fighter pilot who served during World War I. This dedication adds another layer of historical significance, connecting the club not just to the city's sporting heritage but also to its broader past.
While the stadium's current capacity of 7,450 pales in comparison to the record attendance of 26,000 set in 1966 for a clash against AC Milan, it still holds a unique charm. From the outside, I must admit, it looked a little sad and neglected, locked up tight with no one in sight. My hope of a quick peek inside for a small fee was unfortunately dashed. Yet, even without entering, the sheer uniqueness of its location resonated deeply.
Arriving by Boat: A Footballing Fairytale
What truly sets the Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo apart, and perhaps epitomises the spirit of Venezia FC, is its extraordinary logistical quirk: visiting teams often arrive by boat. Picture this: rival players, usually accustomed to team buses and sprawling car parks, instead disembarking from a water taxi, their boots touching down on the Venetian lagoon before a crucial match. It's a truly unforgettable image, a slice of footballing fairytale that perfectly encapsulates the magic of Venice itself.
My visit to Venice was more than just a tourist's exploration of canals and ancient architecture. It was an unexpected delve into the heart of a resilient football club, a testament to the enduring power of the game even in the most improbable of settings. Venezia FC, with its tumultuous history and unique stadium, proved that sometimes the most interesting stories aren't found in the headlines, but in the quiet, persistent pulse of a community that refuses to let its dreams, and its football team, sink beneath the waves.
The images below were taken with a Nikon d3300, clicking anyone of them should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.
