The Legend and Legacy of Devil’s Bridge: A Guide to Kirkby Lonsdale’s Iconic Landmark

Perched on the edge of the Lune Valley, where the rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales meet the dramatic peaks of the Lake District, lies one of England’s most enchanting historical sites: Devil’s Bridge in Kirkby Lonsdale. This ancient stone masterpiece is more than just a crossing; it is a tapestry of medieval engineering, eerie folklore, and a thriving modern community hub.

Whether you are a history buff, a nature lover, or a weekend adventurer, Devil’s Bridge offers a unique glimpse into the soul of Cumbria. In this guide, we dive deep into the myths, the architecture, and the best ways to experience this "naturally divine" destination.

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The Legend: How the Devil Was Outwitted

The bridge takes its evocative name from a popular piece of English folklore. While there are several variations of the tale, the most beloved version tells of an elderly woman whose cow wandered across a shallow part of the River Lune and refused to return.

The Devil appeared to the woman, offering to build a bridge overnight so she could retrieve her livestock. His price? The soul of the first living thing to cross the new structure. The woman agreed, but she was cleverer than the Prince of Darkness anticipated. Once the bridge was complete, she tossed a loaf of bread (or a bun) across the stones. Her small dog chased after the food, becoming the first soul to cross. Enraged at being outsmarted by a simple countrywoman, the Devil vanished in a cloud of brimstone, leaving behind the bridge and—according to local lore—a handprint still visible in the stone.

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A Glimpse into History and Architecture

Beyond the myths, the real history of Devil's Bridge is equally impressive. Though its exact age is debated, historians suggest it dates back to the 13th or 14th century.

• Medieval Engineering: The bridge is a Scheduled Ancient Monument and a Grade I listed structure. It features three ribbed arches built of fine gritstone ashlar.

• Vital Connectivity: For centuries, it served as the only crossing over the River Lune for miles, acting as a crucial link for drovers and pack-horse routes.

• The Sundial: At the eastern end, look for a stone sundial installed in 1663, bearing the inscription "FEARE GOD HONER THE KING".

• Closure to Traffic: Due to its narrow 12-foot width, which became insufficient for modern vehicles, the bridge was closed to traffic in 1932. Today, motorists use the nearby Stanley Bridge, leaving Devil’s Bridge as a peaceful pedestrian haven.

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Top Things to Do at Devil’s Bridge

1. Join the Sunday Motorbike Meet

On any sunny Sunday, Devil’s Bridge transforms into one of the North’s most famous motorcycle meeting points. Hundreds of enthusiasts gather to showcase their bikes and enjoy the community spirit. It is a fantastic atmosphere where you can grab a "bacon butty" and a tea from the famous local snack van while chatting with riders.

2. Take the "Devil’s Bridge Wander"

For those seeking a scenic stroll, a 1.5-mile (2.5km) circular route connects the bridge to the heart of Kirkby Lonsdale.

• The Path: Start at the bridge and follow the riverside path toward the town.

• Radical Steps: Brave the steep "Radical Steps" that lead up from the riverbank.

• Ruskin’s View: At the top, you’ll be rewarded with Ruskin’s View. The Victorian critic John Ruskin famously described this panorama of the Lune Valley as "one of the loveliest views in England, therefore in the world".

3. Scuba Diving and Rock Pools

Surprisingly, the river beneath the bridge is a popular spot for scuba divers. The deep rock pools (around 16 feet deep) and clear visibility make it an ideal inland diving location for those looking for something different.

4. Picnic by the River

With large grassy banks and a tranquil atmosphere, the area around the bridge is perfect for a family picnic. On warm days, you’ll often find locals dipping their toes in the water or simply soaking up the sun with views of the three iconic arches.

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Exploring Kirkby Lonsdale

A visit to the bridge is the perfect excuse to explore the charming market town of Kirkby Lonsdale.

• St. Mary’s Church: A 12th-century marvel with stunning Norman architecture.

• The Vault: Visit "The Vault" at the old bank building to hear filmed stories of the town’s rich history.

• Dining: Enjoy local Cumbrian beef or lamb at award-winning spots like The Sun Inn or Plato’s.

• Shopping: Wander through cobbled streets filled with boutique shops and local butchers.

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Plan Your Visit

• Location: Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria, LA6 2AH.

• Parking: There are two car parks near the bridge with public toilets adjacent.

• Best Time to Visit: Sundays are bustling with the motorbike meet, while weekdays offer a more serene, "naturally divine" experience.

Devil’s Bridge remains a timeless landmark where legend and reality meet. Whether you’re standing on the high centre arch looking for the Devil’s handprint or capturing the perfect reflection in the River Lune, it is a destination that captures the heart of every traveller.

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Ruskin's View: A Glimpse of the Divine, and a Race to Save It

For a moment, standing at a certain vantage point in Kirkby Lonsdale, you can feel a connection to history, art, and the very soul of the English countryside. This is Ruskin's View, a panorama so stunning it moved one of the Victorian era's most influential figures, John Ruskin, to declare it "one of the loveliest views in England, therefore in the world."

The view, a sweeping vista of the River Lune valley, has been immortalized not only by Ruskin's words but also by the brush of one of Britain's greatest painters, J.M.W. Turner. His painting, an ethereal depiction of the Cumbrian landscape, captures the essence of the scene looking northwards from St Mary's churchyard, with Underley Hall nestled in the distance. The painting itself is a masterpiece, and in 2012, it fetched a price of over £200,000, a sum that puts it well out of reach for most of us.

But the beauty of Ruskin's View is that you don't need a fortune to own it. You just need to be there. And so, on April 4th, 2015, I did just that. With a simple Polaroid is2132 camera, I aimed to capture my own version of the scene, standing where Turner once stood, and taking in the same "naturally divine" landscape that so captivated Ruskin. The photos I took show the view in two directions—the classic northward vista that inspired Turner, and a couple of shots looking south-east, revealing a different, but equally beautiful, aspect of the valley.

The pictures reveal a tranquil scene: the River Lune, winding like a silver ribbon through lush green fields, with scattered trees and distant hills providing a soft, rolling backdrop. The sky, filled with dramatic clouds, is reflected perfectly in the river's calm surface, creating a mirror image of the heavens on earth. The vibrant yellows of daffodils in the foreground add a touch of cheerful colour, hinting at the promise of spring.

But this timeless view is, sadly, under threat. In late 2015, just months after these pictures were taken, Storm Desmond wreaked havoc on the area, severely damaging the banking that supports the footpath and the viewpoint itself. The area has been closed to the public ever since, a stark reminder of nature's power and fragility. The local town council is now in a race against time, trying to raise £1 million to repair the damage and reopen this beloved spot. The thought of this view being lost for good is heart breaking, not just for the local community but for anyone who cherishes the beauty of the English countryside.

Ruskin's View is more than just a pretty picture; it's a historical and cultural landmark, a place that has inspired generations. It's a reminder of a time when people had a deeper, more profound connection to the natural world. As we wait for the restoration efforts to succeed, these images serve as a precious record of what we stand to lose. Let us hope that this cherished corner of the world is not lost to the elements, and that future generations will be able to stand in the same spot, and feel the same sense of awe that Turner and Ruskin once did.

Clicking any of the images below should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

The 2 pictures above show the Lune Valley in a south eastern direction.

The picture above and below show the valley in the same direction and from a similar position as Turner's painting.

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The Radical Steps of Kirkby Lonsdale

For those who appreciate a walk with a rich past, the Radical Steps at Kirkby Lonsdale are an absolute must. More than just a simple pathway, these steps are a living testament to a local squabble and a man with a "radical" point of view.

Our journey begins at the top, a spot already famous for its breath taking scenery. Here, near the ancient St Mary's Churchyard, lies Ruskin's View, a panorama so stunning it captivated the Victorian art critic John Ruskin himself. But a few steps away from this well-trodden viewpoint, a different kind of history awaits.

The steps themselves are a story in stone. Built over 200 years ago in 1820, they were commissioned by Dr. Francis Pearson. His goal was simple: to reroute a public footpath that ran through his land. In an era when property rights were fiercely debated, his decision to divert a public right of way met with considerable local opposition. But Dr. Pearson was a man of firm convictions, not just about his land, but in his politics too. His 'radical' beliefs, combined with the controversy over the footpath, led the locals to give the steps a memorable and lasting name: The Radical Steps.

Descending the 86 steps is a journey back in time. The steps are a beautiful, if rugged, part of the landscape, worn smooth by countless feet over two centuries. They are steep and uneven in places, a physical challenge that reminds you of their age and the terrain they conquer. As you make your way down, you're flanked by ancient stone walls, cloaked in moss and ivy, and railings that seem to belong to a bygone era. The air is cool and damp, filled with the scent of earth and the sound of the nearby river.

The descent culminates at the banks of the River Lune, a peaceful and scenic reward for your efforts. Here, the river flows serenely, its surface reflecting the sky and the surrounding trees, a perfect contrast to the strenuous path you just took. Looking back up at the steps from the riverbank, you can truly appreciate their steepness and the engineering feat they represent.

While the beauty and history of the Radical Steps are undeniable, it's important to note their accessibility. The steepness and uneven nature of the steps make them unsuitable for those with walking difficulties or disabilities. They are a true hill walk, a physical challenge for the able-bodied and a reminder that some of the best views require a little effort.

These photos, taken on a crisp April day in 2015, perfectly capture the steps' character. They show the verdant surroundings, the rugged beauty of the stone, and the varying perspectives you experience on your journey down to the River Lune. They serve as a wonderful memento of a unique historical landmark, a place where a man's convictions literally shaped the landscape.

So next time you're in Kirkby Lonsdale, take a moment to explore the Radical Steps. You'll not only be treated to a fantastic view, but you'll also be walking in the footsteps of history.

The pictures below were taken on the 4th April 2015 with a Polaroid is2132, clicking any of them should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

The wall that runs the length of the stairs means that quite often the steps can be damp and slippery even on dry days, the wall blocking sunlight and wind from drying the steps.

The River Lune is seen running along the bottom of the picture, the steps leading down to a path the runs alongside the river towards Devil's Bridge.

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All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.

Exploring Kirkby Lonsdale's Stanley Bridge

Just a short walk from the historic Devil's Bridge in Kirkby Lonsdale lies its more modern, yet equally impressive, successor: the Stanley Bridge. This elegant structure, built in the early 1930s, stands as a testament to both functional engineering and local history.

A Bridge of Progress

Constructed by the Westmorland County Council, Stanley Bridge was a key part of a major bypass project designed to carry the A65 road over the River Lune. Its creation was a significant undertaking, involving over 60 workers and a cost of more than £20,000—a substantial sum at the time, equivalent to approximately £1.5 million today. The bridge's main span stretches an impressive 109 feet 11 inches (33.5 meters) across the river, showcasing the ambition of its design. It was officially opened on December 3, 1932, by the then-Minister for Home Affairs, the Rt. Hon. Oliver Stanley, after whom the bridge is named.

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From Old to New

The construction of Stanley Bridge effectively replaced the need for Devil's Bridge to carry vehicle traffic, allowing that ancient, three-arched stone bridge to become the beautiful pedestrian crossing it is today. This transition highlights a common theme in infrastructure development: as society's needs evolve, new solutions are built to preserve the old while providing modern convenience. The two bridges now exist in a harmonious relationship, representing different eras of transport and engineering.

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A Photographer's Delight

Stanley Bridge, with its distinctive yellow and grey arches, is a favourite subject for photographers. Its reflection on the calm waters of the River Lune provides a captivating visual, especially on a bright day. The surrounding landscape, with its mossy banks and skeletal trees, adds to the serene, timeless quality of the scene. The variety of colours and textures makes it a perfect subject, capturing the interplay of light, water, and architecture.

I took these pictures with a Polaroid is2132 camera on the 4th April 2015. Clicking any of them should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

Devil's Bridge can be seen beyond the archway.

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Whispers of the Devil: Unravelling the History and Legends of Devil's Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale.

Nestled amidst the rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales, where the River Lune carves its path through the verdant landscape, stands a relic of centuries past: Devil's Bridge. This ancient stone structure, a Grade I listed monument, whispers tales of monks, daredevils, and, of course, the Devil himself. Once a vital artery of transportation, it now stands as a picturesque testament to a bygone era, drawing visitors with its haunting beauty and captivating legends.

A Bridge Forged in Time:

Devil's Bridge, believed to have been constructed around 1370, predates many of the surrounding settlements. Historical records suggest that the monks of St Mary's Abbey, York, were responsible for its creation. This strategic crossing provided a vital link across the River Lune, facilitating trade and travel in a region where travel was often challenging. Its rugged stone arches, weathered by the relentless passage of time, speak of the craftsmanship and endurance of medieval builders.

However, its role as the primary crossing was eventually superseded by the construction of the nearby Stanley Bridge in 1932, a more modern and robust structure better suited to the increasing volume of traffic. The transition relegated Devil's Bridge to pedestrian and recreational use, preserving its historical integrity but altering its purpose.

Daredevil's Delight, Legend's Lore:

For generations, Devil's Bridge became synonymous with a thrill-seeking activity known as tombstoning. The deep pools beneath the central arch, carved out by the river's relentless flow, provided a seemingly safe landing for those daring enough to leap from the bridge's heights. This adrenaline-fueled pastime, however, came to an end a few years ago when it was outlawed due to safety concerns.

Yet, despite the ban on tombstoning, the bridge retains its allure, particularly during the summer months. It remains a popular destination for motorcyclists navigating the winding roads of the Yorkshire Dales, offering a scenic pit stop and a chance to soak in the area's natural beauty.

The Devil's Bargain:

But it is the bridge's legend that truly captures the imagination. The story goes that the Devil himself constructed the bridge, offering his services in exchange for the first soul to cross it upon completion. Local lore recounts how a clever woman outwitted the Devil by throwing a piece of bread across the bridge, prompting her dog to chase after it. Thus, the dog became the first "soul" to cross, leaving the Devil frustrated and cheated of his prize.

This tale, echoing similar legends found across Europe, adds a layer of mystique to the bridge, transforming it from a simple stone structure into a gateway to the supernatural. The legend serves as a reminder of the enduring power of folklore and the way in which stories can shape our understanding of places.

A Legacy Preserved:

Today, Devil's Bridge stands as a testament to the rich history and enduring legends of the Yorkshire Dales. Its Grade I listed status ensures its preservation for future generations, allowing visitors to experience a tangible link to the past. As we gaze upon its weathered stones and listen to the gentle murmur of the River Lune, we are reminded of the monks, the daredevils, and the Devil himself – all of whom have left their mark on this remarkable bridge. A place where history, legend, and natural beauty intertwine, Devil's Bridge continues to captivate and inspire, offering a glimpse into the heart of the Yorkshire Dales.

The pictures were taken on the 4th April 2015 using a Polaroid is2132 bridge camera. Clicking any image should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

Thanks for looking and please take a moment to share and follow me on social media, and check out my portfolio on Photo4Me via the link below.

All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.