Climbing to a Legend: A Visit to St. Mary's Church, Whitby

There are few places in England as steeped in history and folklore as Whitby, and at the heart of its most famous tales stands the Church of St. Mary. Reaching this iconic landmark is a pilgrimage in itself—a climb up the legendary 199 steps, which rewards you with breath taking views over Whitby's bustling harbour and red-roofed town.

Founded on this dramatic clifftop site in 1110, in the shadow of the imposing Whitby Abbey ruins, the church has witnessed centuries of change. The oldest parts of the building, including the tower and transepts, date back to the 12th and 13th centuries, though many additions and alterations have been made over time, with the interior largely reflecting the style of the 18th century.

But it's not just the age of the church that draws visitors. The church and its graveyard are famously part of the setting for Bram Stoker's gothic masterpiece, Dracula. Stoker's visit to Whitby in 1890 was a pivotal moment in his writing. He found inspiration in the town's atmosphere and the windswept graveyard of St. Mary's. While researching at the public library, he stumbled upon the story of Vlad Tepes, the real-life figure who would lend his name to the fictional count.

The allure of the novel still echoes through the graveyard. For years, visitors have searched for "Dracula's grave," a fictional tomb in a real place. The story of a cracked, weathered tombstone, where a former rector would direct curious seekers, has become a legend in its own right. The truth is, while some gravestones feature a skull and crossbones—often mistaken for a pirate's mark but more likely a mason's symbol—there is no real Dracula buried here.

The photographs, taken on a beautiful August day in 2018 with a Nikon d3300 SLR, capture the essence of the place. They show the stunning views, the ancient, crooked tombstones, and the solid, weathered stone of the Grade I listed church. Visiting St. Mary's is more than just a trip to a historic building; it’s a journey into the heart of a literary legend and a chance to feel the sea breeze that inspired one of the world's most famous tales.

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The church stands besides the former Abbey overlooking the town.

Taken across the harbour from West Cliff.

Looking up from the harbour.

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St. Mary the Virgin, Kirkby Lonsdale: A Timeless Sentinel Over the Lune

Perched majestically above the meandering River Lune in the charming Cumbrian town of Kirkby Lonsdale stands St. Mary the Virgin, the Parish Church whose very stones whisper tales of centuries past. Officially known by its graceful name, this Grade I listed Anglican place of worship isn't just a building; it's a living chronicle of architectural evolution, community spirit, and unwavering faith.

A Tapestry of Time: Architectural Evolution

The church we see today has graced its elevated site since the 12th century, with remarkable remnants of its original Norman architecture still evident, particularly in the impressive nave arcades. Imagine the skilled hands that first laid these stones, shaping a sacred space that has endured for over 800 years.

However, St. Mary's isn't a static monument to one era. Its history is a fascinating journey of adaptation and expansion, reflecting changing architectural styles and the growing needs of its congregation. In the 14th century, the church underwent a significant transformation. The north and south walls were extended outwards, broadening the nave and creating a more expansive interior. This medieval modification speaks to a period of prosperity and increased devotion in Kirkby Lonsdale.

The early 16th century brought further embellishments, adding a touch of late medieval grandeur. A new clerestory was introduced, raising the roofline and flooding the interior with more light. Pinnacles and battlements adorned the exterior, giving the church a more imposing and decorative profile, typical of the Perpendicular Gothic style.

Yet, as architectural tastes shifted, so did the church's appearance. The 19th century ushered in an era of significant restoration and remodelling. In 1807, a new roof was added, and interestingly, the clerestory, pinnacles, and battlements from the 16th century were removed, perhaps deemed unfashionable or structurally unsound at the time.

The most extensive transformation, however, occurred in 1866 under the renowned architect E.G. Paley. Paley's work was comprehensive; he once again raised the roof, creating a more lofty and inspiring space. He re-floored the chancel, enhancing the area around the altar, and added a south porch, providing a grander and more welcoming entrance. These Victorian-era changes reflect the High Church movement's influence and a desire for more elaborate and reverent worship spaces.

Echoes of History in the Churchyard

Beyond the magnificent church building, the grounds of St. Mary's hold their own historical treasures. A number of Grade II listed monuments dot the churchyard, each telling a personal story of lives lived and remembered in Kirkby Lonsdale. These gravestones, with their weathered inscriptions, offer a poignant connection to generations past.

One particularly intriguing feature within the church grounds is a two-storey octagonal stone gazebo. Thought to date from the late 18th century, this charming structure adds a unique architectural flourish. Interestingly, it wasn't originally built on this spot; it was moved to its current location to the north of St. Mary's from the garden of the vicarage. This relocation speaks to a deliberate effort to preserve and integrate local historical elements into the church's wider precinct. Perhaps it served as a quiet retreat for contemplation for the vicar, or a picturesque folly in a grand garden, now offering a glimpse into the leisure and design sensibilities of a bygone era.

A Glimpse from 2015

The accompanying photographs, captured on April 4th, 2015, with a Polaroid is2132 camera, offer a specific snapshot in time of this remarkable church. While the images themselves may be from a particular moment, the essence of St. Mary the Virgin – its enduring beauty, rich history, and spiritual significance – remains timeless. Clicking any of the images should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

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