Nestled high in the Pennine hills, the village of Heptonstall holds a unique and poignant secret: a single churchyard shared by two churches, both dedicated to St Thomas. This is a place where history isn't just recorded in books but stands in stone, side-by-side, creating a powerful dialogue between past and present. I visited on a day in July 2020 and was captivated by their intertwined story.
The Church of St Thomas a Becket: The Enduring Ruin
The older of the two, the Church of St Thomas a Becket, was built between 1256 and 1260. For centuries, its robust stone walls were the heart of the community, bearing witness to generations of Heptonstall residents. Over time, it grew, with additions of two naves, aisles, chantry chapels, and a striking tower that once commanded the skyline.
But in 1847, a violent storm left the church in a state of disrepair. The damage was so severe that the community decided to build a new church rather than repair the old one. Yet, the old church was not forgotten. Today, its ruins stand as a powerful and beautiful monument. The roofless nave, with its arched windows framing the sky, invites quiet contemplation. The crumbling walls, now open to the elements, are a testament to the passage of time. A poignant silence fills the space, occasionally broken by the murmur of visitors or the rustle of the wind. The ruins are more than just a historical site; they are an active part of the village's identity. The carefully maintained grounds and the way the ruins are open to the public create a tangible link to the past. It's a place where history is alive, and occasional open-air services breathe new life into the ancient stones.
The Church of St Thomas the Apostle: The New Heart of the Village
Rising majestically beside the ruins stands its replacement, the Church of St Thomas the Apostle, completed in 1854. This Victorian Gothic masterpiece presents a stark contrast to its ruined predecessor. Its detailed architecture, soaring spire, and intricate stained-glass windows are a beacon of hope and resilience. The new church is a vibrant community hub, offering regular services and hosting events like the Pennine Spring Music Festival. The light filtering through the colorful stained glass creates an ethereal atmosphere, filling the space with stories told in vibrant hues. The clock face on the tower is a constant, ticking presence, a modern-day anchor to the timeless rhythm of the village.
A Shared Resting Place
The churchyard itself is as significant as the buildings it holds. It is a shared burial ground for both churches and a final resting place for many who shaped the village's story. Among the weathered gravestones, you'll find the resting place of renowned American poet Sylvia Plath, a fact that draws literary pilgrims from around the world. The graveyard is also home to the grave of David Hartley, leader of the infamous Cragg Vale Coiners, adding another layer of intrigue to this historic ground. The twin churches of Heptonstall are a powerful reminder of how communities adapt and endure. They are a living museum, a spiritual home, and a testament to the village's rich and complex history. Walking between the two buildings, you can feel the centuries of stories and lives that have passed through this remarkable place.
Clicking any of the images below should open a link in another window to my Colin Green photography store on Zazzle.
