Losing Yourself (and Finding Yourself) in the Magic of Venice

Venice. The name itself conjures up images of gondolas gliding through turquoise canals, ancient palazzos whispering secrets of the past, and lovers sharing stolen kisses under a bridge. And let me tell you, the reality is every bit as magical.

Venice is unlike any other city in the world. Founded on over 100 tiny islands in a lagoon, it's a labyrinth of narrow waterways, charming bridges, and hidden piazzas. Getting lost here isn't just possible; it's practically encouraged. Wandering down a random calle (alleyway) might lead you to a tucked-away trattoria serving the freshest seafood, a hidden courtyard adorned with blooming bougainvillaea, or a local artisan selling hand-crafted masks.

Of course, there are some must-sees:

• Piazza San Marco: The heart of Venice, this stunning square is dominated by the magnificent St. Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace. Take in the view from the top of the Campanile bell tower, or simply soak up the atmosphere while sipping a cappuccino at an iconic cafe.

• Gondola Ride: Yes, it's touristy, but it's also undeniably Venetian. Glide down the Grand Canal, serenaded by a gondolier, and you'll feel like you've stepped back in time.

• Island Hopping: Explore the colourful houses of Burano, famous for its lacemaking tradition. Visit Murano, where centuries-old glassblowing techniques are still practiced. And don't miss Torcello, a peaceful island with a charming cathedral and sweeping views of the lagoon.

But Venice is more than just a landmark. It's about the feeling of being surrounded by water, the sound of church bells echoing across the canals, and the delicious aroma of freshly baked bread wafting from local bakeries. It's about getting lost in a maze of streets, then stumbling upon a hidden gem.

Here are some tips for making the most of your Venetian adventure:

• Go early (or late): Venice can get crowded, especially during peak season. Try to visit in the shoulder seasons (spring or fall) or arrive early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid the throngs of tourists.
• Embrace the walk: The best way to see Venice is on foot. Comfortable shoes are a must!
• Explore beyond the main sights. Venture off the beaten path and discover the hidden corners of this enchanting city.
• Learn a few Italian phrases: A little effort goes a long way. Even a simple "Buongiorno" (good morning) or "Grazie" (thank you) will be appreciated by the locals.
• Savour the food: Venetian cuisine is a delightful mix of fresh seafood, vegetables, and unique regional specialties. Don't miss the chance to try cicchetti (Venetian tapas) and a glass of local wine in a bacaro (wine bar).

Venice is a city that will stay with you long after you leave. It's a place that awakens the senses, stirs the imagination, and leaves you feeling like you've walked into a living fairy tale. So, pack your bags, lace up your walking shoes, and get ready to lose yourself (and find yourself) in the canals of Venice.

I was in Venice for 5 days in 2018, between the dates of Monday 29th and Friday 2nd November. I took numerous pictures and I have been uploading them in smaller sets. This is set 1 from Wednesday 31st October 2018, they were taken with a Nikon d3300. Clicking any of the images below should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

Fondaco dei Tedeschi.

Taken near the Rialto Bridge, the Grand Canal in the foreground.

Merceria San Salvador.

The previous 2 pictures were taken from one of the bridges crossing the Rio dei Bareteri Canal.

Public transport Venetian style, one of the cities water buses on The Grand Canal.

Gondola's moored on the Grand Canal.

Church of San Silverstro

The previous three images are of the Rio Marin Canal.

Ponte Degli Scalzi

Crossers The Grand Canal outside Venice's Railway Station.

The Grand Canal from the Ponte Degli Scalzi, the Venice Santa Lucia Railway Station is just visible to the right of the picture, the Big Dome of Venice (Church of San Simeon Piccolo) to the left.

The waterfront along the San Marco Basin, this is known as the Riva degli Schiavoni.

I'm not sure now you'll be able to visit any major city without finding a Golden Arches. 

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The Stone Sentinel of Venice: A Tale of the Rialto Bridge

Venice is a city of magic and myth, and at its heart lies a symbol of its enduring spirit: the Rialto Bridge. More than just a crossing, this majestic stone arch is a bustling marketplace, a historical landmark, and a testament to centuries of resilience. It is the oldest of the four bridges to span the legendary Grand Canal, and its story is one of innovation, collapse, and ultimate triumph.

A Bridge of Many Lives

The bridge you see today is actually the culmination of a long and dramatic history. The very first crossing at this narrow point of the Grand Canal was a modest pontoon bridge, the Ponte della Moneta, built in 1181. It was a simple, practical solution to connect the growing districts of San Marco and San Polo.

As Venice’s commerce boomed, particularly with the thriving Rialto market nearby, a more substantial crossing was needed. In 1255, the pontoon bridge was replaced by a wooden structure that, remarkably, featured a movable platform in the middle to allow tall ships to pass. It was this bridge that first housed shops whose rents helped fund the bridge's maintenance. The name was also changed to "Rialto," a nod to the nearby market and the heart of Venetian trade.

However, the wooden bridges were fragile. They were repeatedly damaged by fire—notably during a failed coup attempt by Bajamonte Tiepolo in 1310—and twice collapsed entirely. The most spectacular collapse was in 1444, when it buckled under the weight of a huge crowd celebrating the wedding procession of the Marquis of Ferrara.

The Birth of a Masterpiece

After yet another collapse in 1524, Venetian authorities decided a stone bridge was the only way forward. In 1551, they launched a competition, attracting proposals from the greatest architects of the day, including Michelangelo and Palladio. Yet, it was the bold design by Antonio da Ponte that won. His plan for a single-span arch was revolutionary and, to many, terrifyingly ambitious. Skeptics predicted it would collapse, but the design’s practicality and elegance convinced the city.

Work began in 1588 and, thanks to a staggering feat of engineering, was completed just three years later. To support the immense weight of the stone arch and its shops, over 6,000 timber piles were driven into the soft Venetian mud on each side. The result was a bridge of immense strength and beauty, a landmark that defied its critics and has stood firm for over 400 years.

A Living, Breathing Landmark

The Rialto Bridge is a marvel of both architecture and function. Spanning 31.8 meters with a height of 7.32 meters and a width of 22.9 meters, it's an imposing presence. But what truly makes it unique is its inner life. Two arcades of shops run along its length, selling everything from traditional Venetian crafts to high-end jewelry. A central pathway of steps, flanked by these bustling shops, leads to two panoramic viewpoints at the very top. These offer stunning, unobstructed views of the Grand Canal, with its constant procession of gondolas, vaporetto water buses, and historic palaces. Walking across the Rialto Bridge today is to be part of a continuous, living history. You can feel the echoes of merchants trading, lovers meeting, and artists drawing inspiration from its majestic form. It's not just a way to get from San Marco to San Polo; it’s an essential part of the Venetian experience, connecting its past, present, and future.

I took the pictures below on the 30th October 2018 with a Nikon d3300, clicking any of them should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

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Venice by Night: A Glimpse of the Enduring Rialto Bridge

There's a certain magic to Venice after dark. The bustling daytime crowds thin, the sounds of the canals become more pronounced, and the ancient buildings glow with a warm, inviting light. And at the heart of it all, illuminated and magnificent, stands the Rialto Bridge, a true testament to Venetian ingenuity and resilience.

These images, captured on a tranquil November night in 2018 with a Nikon d330 SLR camera, offer a captivating look at this iconic landmark, revealing its architectural grandeur and the vibrant life that still hums around it after sunset.

A Bridge Through Time:

The Rialto Bridge isn't just a crossing; it's a living piece of Venetian history. As the oldest crossing of the Grand Canal, it has witnessed centuries of change, commerce, and celebration. Connecting the lively districts of San Marco and San Polo, it has always been a vital artery for the city.

The current stone masterpiece, which began construction in 1588 and was completed in a mere three years in 1591, is the latest iteration of several bridges that have graced this strategic location. Its design, a single, elegant arch spanning 31.8 meters (104.3 ft), was the winning entry in a competition, defying many who doubted such a structure could stand. Yet, here it is, over 400 years later, a proud symbol of Venice's enduring spirit.

More Than Just a Crossing:

What truly sets the Rialto Bridge apart is its unique design. Far from being a simple pathway, it's a bustling marketplace in itself. Two arcades of shops line its length, separated by a central pathway of steps. Behind each row of shops, two additional paths offer more intimate strolls. Imagine the countless merchants and shoppers who have passed through these very spaces, their voices echoing off the stone walls for centuries. From the images, you can glimpse the glow of shop windows and the faint outlines of people enjoying the evening, perhaps Browse for souvenirs or simply taking in the ambiance. Even the "Hard Rock Rock Shop" is visible, a modern touch against a backdrop of ancient history.

The engineering marvel of its time, the bridge's single arch is supported by an astonishing feat of construction: over 6000 timber piles driven into the soft embankments beneath each abutment. This incredible foundation has allowed it to withstand the test of time, proving the naysayers wrong.

A History of Reinvention:

The Rialto's journey to its current form is a fascinating tale of perseverance. The very first crossing here, the Ponte della Moneta, was a humble pontoon bridge built in 1181. As the nearby Rialto market blossomed, a more substantial wooden bridge with a movable platform was constructed in 1255. This was the first to incorporate shops, with their taxes and rents helping to fund its upkeep – a clever financial model that persists to this day. It was also around this time that the bridge officially adopted the name "Rialto" after its bustling neighbour.

However, the wooden bridges were not without their challenges. The bridge suffered significant damage from fire in 1310 during an attempted coup and famously collapsed in 1444 during a wedding celebration. Even a rebuilt drawbridge met its demise in 1524. It wasn't until the competition in 1551, which drew the era's most renowned architects, that the current, single-span stone design by Antonio da Ponte was chosen, forever changing the Venetian skyline.

Venice After Dark:

As the photographs illustrate, the Rialto Bridge truly comes alive at night. The reflections of the city lights dance on the Grand Canal, illuminating the water and the elegant buildings that line its banks. Vaporettos, like the one seen gliding under the bridge, continue their journeys, their lights creating streaks on the dark water. Gondolas, some neatly moored and covered for the evening, await the next day's romantic journeys. The soft glow emanating from the windows of the palaces and shops creates a welcoming atmosphere, inviting exploration and contemplation.

The Rialto Bridge, with its rich history and captivating night time presence, is more than just a means to cross the Grand Canal. It's a monument to human ingenuity, a vibrant hub of activity, and a timeless symbol of Venice's enduring allure. Standing on its ancient stones, or gazing upon it from the water's edge, one can't help but feel connected to the centuries of stories it holds within its very fabric.

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Experience the Magic of Venice: A New Video Journey!

Get ready to be transported to the enchanting canals and historic piazzas of Italy's most unique city! I'm thrilled to announce my latest YouTube upload: "A Trip to Venice."

This captivating video, approximately 2.5 minutes long, is a curated collection of scenes I captured during my few days exploring Venice at the end of October and beginning of November 2018. From the moment you hit play, you'll glide along the iconic Grand Canal on a mesmerizing boat trip, witnessing the city's grandeur from its watery arteries.

The video also takes you through the bustling and magnificent St. Mark's area, showcasing its architectural wonders and vibrant atmosphere. Beyond the famous landmarks, you'll discover various other short, intimate clips highlighting Venice's charming smaller canals, intricate bridges, and the timeless beauty of its ancient buildings.

Venice, with its enchanting canals and historic architecture, holds an undeniable allure. But in October-November 2018, during my visit, the city offered a stark, firsthand glimpse into its unique challenges. I arrived to find Venice battling what hotel staff informed me was its worst flooding since 1968. My 1-minute, 50-second video, "St Marks Square Flooding," captures various scenes filmed around the iconic square on random days and times during my stay, showcasing the pervasive nature of the acqua alta.

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Waist-High Waters and Resilient Spirits

The moment I stepped off the vaporetto, the reality of the situation hit me – literally. I had to wade through waist-high water across St. Mark's Square just to reach my hotel. It was an immediate and unforgettable introduction to Venice's watery embrace. Every single day of my trip, the area was flooded to some degree, a constant reminder of the city's delicate balance with the sea.

What struck me most, beyond the sheer volume of water, was the incredible resilience of the Venetian people. They didn't lament or complain; they simply accepted the flooding as part of their everyday life. I saw locals navigating the submerged streets with a calm pragmatism, adapting their routines to the ever-present water. Their spirit was truly fantastic, a testament to generations of living in harmony with – and at the mercy of – the tides.

A Lingering Concern for Venice's Future

Recent news reports have sadly indicated that Venice has experienced even worse flooding since my 2018 visit. My heart goes out to the residents, and I feel desperately sad for the continuous challenges they face. It highlights the urgent need for long-promised flood defences, such as the MOSE project, to finally be completed and become fully effective. One can only hope that these crucial measures will soon provide the protection Venice so desperately needs, allowing its beauty and unique way of life to thrive for generations to come.

My video serves as a small, personal document of a truly impactful experience, a visual diary of a city learning to live with its extraordinary watery landscape.

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The Enduring Charm of Venice's Accademia Bridge

Venice, the city of canals, bridges, and unparalleled romance, offers countless iconic views. Among its many crossings, the Accademia Bridge, or Ponte dell'Accademia as it's known to locals, holds a special place in my heart. My photographic exploration around this beloved landmark in October and November 2018 revealed not just a crucial link over the Grand Canal, but a structure imbued with a rich, evolving history and a unique charm that set it apart.

A Bridge Reborn, Again and Again

The Accademia Bridge marks the southernmost crossing of the Grand Canal, just before it gracefully sweeps into St. Mark's Basin. While it feels like an ancient part of Venice's fabric, its history is surprisingly dynamic. The first official crossing at this point was a steel structure opened in 1854. This was a significant development, especially given previous unsuccessful attempts by locals to establish a bridge here.

However, steel wasn't to be its final form. In 1932, a new wooden structure replaced the original. This wooden incarnation stood for decades, becoming a familiar sight to Venetians and visitors alike. But the story doesn't end there. In the early 1980s, local politicians once again sought designs for a replacement. The result, opened in 1985, was a faithful wooden replica of the 1932 bridge.

There's been talk of yet another replacement, a notion that personally fills me with a touch of apprehension. I sincerely hope they decide against it. The current wooden design feels perfectly suited to Venice's historic aesthetic, offering a warmer, more inviting feel than a modern alternative might.

A Favourite Among Giants

During my time in Venice, I had the opportunity to experience three of the four bridges that span the Grand Canal. While each has its own distinct character, the Accademia Bridge quickly became my favorite. Compared to the more ornate yet perhaps less captivating Scalzi Bridge, the Accademia offers a more interesting and visually appealing design. And in stark contrast to the often overwhelmingly crowded Rialto Bridge, the Accademia always felt significantly calmer, allowing for a more serene and contemplative experience.

Perhaps it's the gentle creak of its wooden planks underfoot, or the unparalleled views it offers of the Grand Canal stretching out towards the open lagoon. Whatever the reason, the Ponte dell'Accademia embodies a certain Venetian spirit – resilient, beautiful, and steeped in a history that continues to unfold. It's more than just a crossing; it's a vantage point, a piece of art, and a quiet witness to the timeless rhythm of Venice.

Clicking any of the images below should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

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