A Walk in the Rain: Exploring Brearley and the Route 66 Cycleway

There’s a unique beauty to the Calder Valley when it's raining. The greens become richer, the stone walls darker, and the atmosphere takes on a moody, contemplative quality. My recent walk, a loop starting from home in Sowerby Bridge and leading through Boulderclough and Mytholmroyd before returning along the Route 66 cycleway, offered a perfect, if soggy, opportunity to experience this.

The Murder Stone: A Dark Tale on a Pleasant Path

The Route 66 cycleway, is a well-loved trail for cyclists and walkers alike. As you pass through the hamlet of Brearley, just south of the railway bridge, you encounter a fascinating and rather macabre piece of local history: the memorial to William Deighton.

The "murder stone," as it's known, is a solemn reminder of a brutal crime. The memorial commemorates William Deighton, a tax inspector who was killed in Halifax while investigating the notorious coin counterfeiter "King" David Hartley and his gang. The stone, with its weathered, skeletal carving and a fragment of text, stands as a chilling artifact of a time when the law in this part of Yorkshire was a dangerous business. The photographs capture the stone in its atmospheric setting, nestled in the long grass beside the path, a quiet and unexpected monument to a violent past.

The path is part of the Route 66 cycleway (bridleway), with the railway bridge seen at the top of the picture and the green metal wall.

Underneath the skeletal artwork reads the following: A full and true account of a barborous, bloody, and inhuman murder. There is further artwork below this writing.

A Shelter, and a Soaking

Carrying on my walk past the former chapel, now converted into apartments, and through the heart of Brearley, the skies opened up. The rain, which had been threatening all morning, finally began to pour. Seeking shelter, I ducked under the arch of the Wheatley Royd Farm Bridge. It was a temporary reprieve, a dry spot from which I could watch the rain stream down the stone walls of the bridge and form rivulets on the path. The view from under the bridge, a framed shot of the lush, wet greenery beyond, was a beautiful moment of calm.

However, after nearly 30 minutes of waiting, with my weather app stubbornly refusing to offer any hope of a quick clearing, I conceded defeat. The path ahead called, and there was nothing for it but to embrace the inevitable soaking.

The images from the walk, from the striking memorial to the moody, rain-soaked landscapes of the Calder Valley, tell the story of the day perfectly. They capture the unique blend of history, nature, and unexpected weather that makes walking in West Yorkshire such a rewarding experience, even when you end up soaked to the skin.

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The Murder Stone of Brearley: A Grim Tale of the Cragg Vale Coiners

Tucked away on Route 66 of the national cycle network, a quiet path winds through the small village of Brearley, between Luddendenfoot and Mytholmroyd. Here, a weathered stone stands as a stark and fascinating memorial, a silent witness to a dark chapter in local history. Inscribed with the chilling words, "A Full and True Account of a Barbarous, Bloody and Inhuman Murder," the monument immediately begs a question: what brutal event is it commemorating?

The story behind this stone is a tale of greed, betrayal, and a notorious gang of criminals known as the Cragg Vale Coiners.

The victim was William Deighton, the Supervisor of Taxes and Excise for the Halifax area. A southerner who had moved to Halifax in 1759, Deighton's job involved collecting taxes on cloth and beer. It was in this role that he ran afoul of the powerful Coiners, who were masters of a lucrative and illegal trade: clipping and debasing coinage. Their leader, a formidable figure named "King" David Hartley, saw Deighton as a significant threat to their operation.

By November 1769, several of the Coiners had been arrested, and the remaining gang members decided to eliminate the man who had been a thorn in their side. On the night of November 9th, as William Deighton returned home from a business meeting, he was ambushed. He was shot, trampled, and robbed by two men, Mathew Normington and Robert Thomas, while a third, Thomas Clayton, acted as a lookout. Deighton's life was tragically cut short, and he was buried just two days later at Halifax Parish Church. His grave, a poignant detail in this grim story, lists his name as William Dighton.

The Coiners' plan to escape justice was short-lived. Thomas Clayton, the lookout, later provided crucial evidence that led to the conviction of Normington and Thomas for highway robbery. The two men met a brutal fate. Robert Thomas was executed at Tyburn, York, on August 6, 1774, followed by Matthew Normington on April 15, 1775. Both of their bodies were gruesomely displayed at Beacon Hill in Halifax, with an arm pointing toward the scene of the murder—a grim warning to anyone else considering a life of crime.

I've passed this stone many times, always curious about its meaning. What I've been unable to uncover is who placed the stone here and why. The murder took place in Halifax, and the Coiners were most active in Cragg Vale. Yet, this lonely monument stands in Brearley, its presence a stark, enduring mystery.

These photos, taken with a Samsung Galaxy Tablet in November 2013, show the weathered face of the stone, its inscriptions worn but still legible, a silent guardian of a dark and fascinating piece of local history.

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The following picture was taken with a Nikon d3300 in 2017.

I took the picture below in 2014 with a Polaroid is2132.

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Whispers of Mills and Murders: Unearthing Brearley's Hidden History

Nestled between the rumble of the mainline railway and the busy A646 Burnley Road, between Luddendenfoot and Mytholmroyd, lies the unassuming hamlet of Brearley. It's easy to pass by, a blink-and-you'll-miss-it spot in the verdant embrace of West Yorkshire. But beneath its tranquil surface, Brearley holds tales that echo through the centuries, whispering of industry, faith, and even murder.

One of the first things that catches the eye is the former Baptist Chapel. Once a vibrant hub of community life, its stone walls now house apartments, a silent testament to the changing fortunes of the area. The closure of the mills, once the lifeblood of Brearley, led to a gradual exodus, leaving the chapel's pews empty. It's a poignant reminder of how industrial shifts can reshape entire communities, leaving behind echoes of a bygone era.

But Brearley's history isn't just about the rise and fall of industry. Venture along the Route 66 cycleway, towards Mytholmroyd, and you'll encounter a stark reminder of a darker chapter: the memorial to William Deighton.

Deighton, a tax inspector, arrived in Halifax in April 1759. He quickly became aware of the rampant practice of coin clipping, a form of counterfeiting that plagued the region. His investigations led him to the notorious Cragg Vale Coiners, a gang who were systematically defrauding the government. The story takes a tragic turn in November 1769, when Deighton was ambushed and murdered on Swires Road, Halifax, by Robert Thomas and Matthew Normington, two members of the Coiners.

The initial acquittal of Thomas and Normington in August 1770 is a chilling reflection of the times, but justice, though delayed, was not denied. They were eventually convicted and executed for highway robbery in 1774, bringing a grim end to the Coiners' reign of terror. Deighton's memorial serves as a stark reminder of his dedication and the ultimate price he paid for his pursuit of justice.

And then, there are the bridges. Brearley boasts not one, but two 18th-century bridges, each a testament to the engineering prowess of the time. One gracefully spans the River Calder, while the other arches over the historic Rochdale Canal. These sturdy structures, weathered by time and traffic, offer a glimpse into the transport networks that once connected this bustling region.

Brearley, then, is more than just a quiet hamlet. It's a place where the echoes of industrial revolution mingle with tales of faith and crime. It's a place where you can stand on centuries-old bridges and contemplate the lives that have passed beneath them. It's a place where history whispers from every stone and every bend in the cycle path. So, next time you find yourself travelling through West Yorkshire, take a moment to pause in Brearley. You might just hear the whispers of its fascinating past.

The pictures were taken on consecutive August weekends in 2016 with a Nikon d3300 Camera. Clicking any image below should open a link in another window to my Colin Green Photography store on Zazzle.

This first set of 7 were taken on the 14th August 2016.

The former Brearley Baptist Chapel and Sunday School, now apartments.

The River Calder towards Brearley Bridge.

Stoney Springs House.

The former Baptist Chapel and Sunday School.

Brearley Bridge and the River Calder.

The next set of 6 pictures were taken on the 20th August 2016.

Brearley Bridge and Weir.

The former Baptist Chapel and Sunday School.

This stone chair is found on the footpath the runs between Brearley and Luddendenfoot alongside the railway.

The William Deighton Memorial Stone. The stone is a dedicated to William Deighton, a local tax inspector who was murdered by the Cragg Vale Coiners Gang.

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