Exploring the Unspoiled North: A Boat Trip Along Ibiza's Coast

When people think of Ibiza, their minds often jump to the vibrant nightlife and bustling beaches of the south. But for those in the know, the true soul of the island lies in its rugged, serene northern coast. I recently had the chance to experience this tranquil beauty firsthand on a boat trip from Portinatx to San Miguel, a journey of approximately four nautical miles that revealed a side of Ibiza many never see.

Sailing out from the charming village of Portinatx, the vibrant blues of the Mediterranean stretched out before us, a striking contrast to the dramatic, ochre-coloured cliffs that hugged the coastline. The sea, a deep, inviting sapphire, was surprisingly calm, and our boat glided effortlessly through the gentle swells.

The journey was a feast for the eyes, with each turn revealing a new and breathtaking vista. The landscape here is wilder and less developed than in the south, with verdant hillsides descending steeply into the sea. We passed by impressive rock formations, like the distinctive, jagged rocks of Calo d'en Calders and the imposing cliffs of Punta de Llevant, their layers of ancient stone a testament to the island's geological history.

One of the most memorable sights was the lonely sea stack of Sa Polleta des Punset. Rising dramatically from the waves, it's a natural sculpture, its craggy peak reaching towards the sky. In the distance, a small boat looked like a toy against the scale of the landscape, a perfect symbol of the tranquility and vastness of this stretch of coastline.

We also got a unique perspective on some of the north's hidden gems, including the beautiful Cala Benirras. From the water, you can truly appreciate the secluded nature of the cove, nestled between rolling hills and rugged cliffs. It's a place that feels like a secret, a world away from the island's more crowded spots. The journey continued past Calo des Porcs and the majestic Cap Blanc, each coastline offering its own unique beauty.

As the sun shimmered on the water, creating a sparkling tapestry of light and shadow, it was impossible not to feel a sense of peace. This was a different kind of Ibiza—one of raw natural beauty, quiet coves, and unspoiled landscapes.

The journey, while only a few nautical miles, felt like a true adventure. It was a reminder that even on an island famous for its energy, there are still places where you can connect with nature and find a moment of profound calm. These photos, taken on July 12, 2014, with a simple Polaroid camera, are a perfect memento of that serene morning spent sailing along Ibiza's magnificent northern coast. If you ever find yourself on the island, I highly recommend leaving the crowds behind and embarking on your own exploration of its wilder side. You won't be disappointed.

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Benirras Cove

Cala Benirras

Calo d'en Calders

Calo des Porcs

Cap Blanc

Punta de Llevant

Sa Polletta des Punset and entrance to Benirras

Sa Polletta des Punset

Illa des Bosc and the entrance to San Miguel cove.

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Ibiza's Hidden Gems: A Coastal Return from San Miguel to Portinatx (July 2014)

 Sometimes, the magic of a journey lies not just in the destination, but in the path taken. Back in July 2014, while soaking up the sun in the beautiful Portinatx, Ibiza, I embarked on a memorable boat trip that offered a unique perspective of the island's northern coastline. Having already shared the captivating sights encountered on the outbound leg from Portinatx to San Miguel Bay, it's time to unveil the equally stunning views captured on the return journey – an hour-long coastal cruise that truly showcased Ibiza's rugged beauty.

On July 12th, 2014, with my trusty Polaroid is2132 bridge camera in hand, I settled in for what I knew would be a feast for the eyes. The Mediterranean sun glinted off the turquoise waters as our boat gracefully skirted the northern edge of the island, revealing a tapestry of hidden coves, dramatic cliffs, and untouched natural wonders.

The return trip from San Miguel to Portinatx wasn't merely a reverse of the outbound journey; it offered a fresh perspective, with the changing light and the slight shift in our vantage point bringing new details to life. We cruised past secluded beaches, some accessible only by boat, inviting me to imagine their pristine sands and crystal-clear waters. The coastline itself was a masterpiece of nature's artistry – ancient rock formations sculpted by centuries of wind and waves, creating intriguing shapes and textures.

I vividly recall the vibrant hues of the water, transitioning from deep sapphire in the depths to an almost luminous emerald closer to the shore. The cliffs, clad in a mosaic of greens and browns from the hardy Mediterranean vegetation, plunged dramatically into the sea, creating a sense of both grandeur and tranquillity. It was a stark reminder of Ibiza's diverse landscape, proving that there's so much more to this island than just its famous nightlife.

This hour-long return journey was a photographer's dream. Each turn of the boat presented a new postcard-perfect scene. There was a particular joy in capturing the raw, untamed beauty of this less-explored coastline, far from the bustling resorts. The gentle rocking of the boat, the salty air on my skin, and the panoramic views all combined to create an unforgettable experience.

While the exact names of every cove or rock formation may now elude me, the feeling of awe and serenity from that coastal cruise remains. It's these unexpected moments of natural beauty that often become the most cherished memories of a trip. So, if you ever find yourself in Portinatx, I highly recommend taking to the water and discovering the stunning, rugged charm of Ibiza's northern shores. You might just find your own hidden gems along the way.

Entrance to San Miguel Bay

San Miguel

Portinatx Pirate Tower

Punta Moscarter Lighthouse

Portinatx

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Chasing the Horizon: Unforgettable Ibiza Sunsets from Portinatx (2014)

 There's something truly magical about an Ibiza sunset, and even a less-than-stellar hotel couldn't dim that glow for me back in July 2014. My trip to the White Isle, specifically the northern outpost of Portinatx, yielded a small but cherished collection of photos capturing the stunning daily spectacle from around my hotel, the Club Vista Bahia.

While the Club Vista Bahia, which I believe has since closed its doors, left a lot to be desired in terms of accommodation, its location more than compensated. Perched on the outskirts of Portinatx, it offered uninterrupted, panoramic views of the sun dipping below the ocean's horizon – a sight that quickly became the highlight of each day.

Armed with my Polaroid is2132 bridge camera, I spent evenings capturing the vibrant oranges, fiery reds, and soft purples that painted the sky as the day drew to a close. These aren't professional shots, but they hold a special place for me, encapsulating those serene moments of pure natural beauty.

Even now, looking back at these images, I'm transported to that balcony, feeling the gentle sea breeze and listening to the distant hum of the island coming alive for the night. It's a testament to how even simple pleasures, like a spectacular sunset, can elevate an experience and create lasting memories.

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Chasing the Light: A Coastal Hike to Far del Moscarter, Ibiza

In the summer of 2014, amidst the sun-drenched shores of Portinatx, Ibiza, I decided to trade poolside lounging for a coastal adventure. My mission? To hike to the iconic lighthouse, Far del Moscarter, a journey of approximately 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) from my hotel, Club Vista Bahia.

Let's be honest, the hotel wasn't exactly a highlight of the trip. While the sunsets were undeniably spectacular, painting the sky with fiery hues, the rest left much to be desired. Unmotivated staff, uninspired food, and a less-than-pristine environment contributed to a somewhat lackluster experience. (And, I've since heard it's closed its doors – hardly surprising!) But this isn't a hotel review; it's a tale of a rewarding walk.

Setting out along the rugged coastline, the heat was a tangible presence, but the allure of the sea breeze and the promise of panoramic views kept me going. A slight detour through a shady woodland area added an unexpected element of adventure, and after a brief navigational challenge, the stark white tower of Far del Moscarter finally came into view.

And what a view it was! Perched dramatically on the edge of the coastline, the lighthouse offered breathtaking vistas of the shimmering Mediterranean Sea. It's easy to see why this spot is so beloved.

Far del Moscarter, a beacon of light since 1977, stands tall as the highest lighthouse in the Balearic Islands, with a focal plane of 52 meters. Construction of this impressive structure began in 1975, and its design is refreshingly minimalist. Unlike many traditional lighthouses, Far del Moscarter was built as a fully automated tower, lacking any residential quarters. Its sleek concrete form, devoid of unnecessary embellishments, speaks to its functional purpose.

The journey to the lighthouse, captured with my trusty Polaroid is2132 bridge camera on July 9th, 2014, was a reminder of the simple joys of exploration. Sometimes, the best experiences are found when you step away from the predictable and venture into the unknown.

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Ibiza's Silent Sentinels: The Pirate Towers and a History of Invasion

Ibiza, the jewel of the Mediterranean, evokes images of sun-drenched beaches and vibrant nightlife. But beneath the modern allure lies a rich and turbulent past, etched into the very landscape itself. Long before the era of dance clubs and celebrity DJs, Ibiza's strategic location made it a coveted prize, a crossroads for trade and, unfortunately, a target for invaders and pirates.

The island's position, nestled between Europe and Africa, meant it was a natural stopping point for seafaring travellers. This, however, came at a cost. The fertile soils, abundant salt reserves (a highly prized commodity), and the island's harvests attracted the attention of those seeking to plunder. The dispersed population, spread across the island, made it difficult to defend, leaving them vulnerable to raids. Many captured islanders were tragically sold into slavery, a dark chapter in Ibiza's history.

In response to this constant threat, the Ibizan people began to develop a system of coastal lookouts. From high vantage points, they could monitor the horizon for approaching ships, offering a vital early warning. Over time, these simple lookouts evolved into the formidable pirate towers, or "torres de defensa," that still dot the island's coastline today.

The 16th century marked a turning point, with the construction of fortified towers around the main population centers: Ibiza Town, San Antonio, and Santa Eulalia. By the 18th century, approximately 15 of these towers stood guard, including the iconic tower at Portinatx. These structures were more than just watchtowers; they were fortified shelters, stocked with muskets, shot, gunpowder, and small cannons.

Their design reflected the constant threat of attack. The entrances were typically situated about 10 feet above ground level, accessible only by rope ladders, which could be quickly retracted in times of danger. This high access point also allowed defenders to pour boiling water or oil onto attackers attempting to scale the walls, a brutal but effective deterrent. Some towers boasted walls up to 10 feet thick, making them incredibly resilient. Remarkably, no tower was ever successfully captured in a direct assault.

Communication was crucial. During the day, smoke signals relayed warnings across the island, while at night, fires served the same purpose. These signals allowed the islanders to mobilize their defenses and prepare for incoming threats.

While many of these towers have undergone restoration, they are largely closed to the public, with access limited to the exterior areas. This measure was taken to protect the historical structures from vandalism, a sad reality that has plagued many of these sites. Furthermore, the towers have unfortunately become associated with sombre tales of ritual suicides, adding to the reasons for restricted access.

The photographs accompanying this blog post, taken in July 2014 with a Polaroid is2132 bridge camera, capture the silent majesty of these historical sentinels. They stand as a testament to the resilience and resourcefulness of the Ibizan people, a reminder of a time when the island's beauty was shadowed by the constant threat of invasion.

These towers, now silent guardians of the coastline, offer a glimpse into Ibiza's complex and often overlooked past. They stand as a poignant reminder that the island's story is far richer and more nuanced than the modern image of a party paradise. They are a tangible link to a time when survival depended on vigilance and fortitude, a time when the islanders stood together against the tides of history.

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 All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.

Portinatx, Ibiza's Hidden Gem

Ibiza is known for its vibrant nightlife, but the island also has a quieter side, with many hidden coves and beaches perfect for relaxation. Portinatx is one such gem, a small resort on the island's north coast that offers a laid-back atmosphere and stunning scenery. 

What to do in Portinatx 

• Relax on the beach. Portinatx has two main beaches, S'Arenal and Xarraca, both of which are small and sheltered. The sand is soft, and the water is crystal clear, making them perfect for swimming and sunbathing. 

• Go for a hike. There are several hiking trails in the area, including one that leads to the top of a cliff with panoramic views of the coast and another that follows the coast to the lighthouse at Far del Moscarter. 

• Explore the underwater world. There are several dive sites around Portinatx, which is home to a variety of marine life. 

Where to stay in Portinatx 

There are a few hotels and apartments in Portinatx, but most of the accommodation is in the form of villas and holiday homes. This makes Portinatx a great option for families and groups of friends who want their own space. 

How to get to Portinatx

The nearest airport to Portinatx is Ibiza Airport, which is about 30 minutes away by car. There are also regular buses from Ibiza Town to Portinatx and a regular boat service from the beach to a number of interesting locations on the island.

 

These pictures were taken in July 2014 using a Polaroid iS2132 digital camera. The pictures shown are of the town of Portinatx; the pictures I took of the pirate tower and lighthouse will feature in separate posts.

All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.