An August Evening in the Pennines: Where Moorland Meets Motorway at Scammonden

Date: August 4th, 2018 Location: Scammonden, West Yorkshire

The Yorkshire Pennines, with their sweeping moorlands and dramatic valleys, hold a timeless quality. Yet, there’s one spot where the ancient landscape collides spectacularly with modern human ingenuity: Scammonden. Looking back at the photographs I captured on an early August evening in 2018, the unique character of this location—a crossroads of history, engineering, and stunning nature—is vividly apparent.

The Scenery: Golden Hour on the Moor

• The Light: The sun, low in the sky, bathes the scene in a warm, amber glow. On a summer evening, particularly following what was a famously hot summer in 2018, this light is intensely beautiful, bringing out the deep, earthy tones of the heather and rough grasses that cover the hills.

• The Landscape: You can sense the vastness of the exposed Pennine moorland—a land shaped by centuries of wind and rain. The slopes look rugged yet inviting, a perfect place for quiet reflection as the day cools down.

This area, high up on the backbone of England, offers a breath taking sense of isolation, a characteristic that makes its juxtaposition with the nearby motorway all the more striking.

The Modern Marvel: The M62 at Scammonden Dam

The M62, the vital trans-Pennine route, here performs one of its most impressive feats. Instead of a conventional bridge, the motorway runs along the crest of a massive structure known as the Scammonden Dam, which impounds the water to form Scammonden Reservoir (or Scammonden Water).

• A World-Class Design: Completed in the early 1970s, this dam was the first in the world to carry a motorway along its crest, and remains the only one of its kind in Britain. It's a spectacular example of multi-purpose civil engineering, solving the problems of both crossing a deep valley and providing a much-needed water supply for Huddersfield.

• The Viewpoint: Your pictures clearly show the elevated position of the motorway, giving an incredible vantage point for drivers and observers alike. The sheer scale of the cutting and the embankment is immense—a lasting monument to the ambition of the mid-20th-century road builders.

The faint streams of traffic in the images—perhaps captured with a slightly longer exposure as the light faded—represent the ceaseless flow of commerce and life connecting the East and West of the country, all happening atop this silent, earth-filled wall.

The Companion Reservoir: Booth Wood

• Booth Wood's Role: Lying just north of the M62 and Scammonden, Booth Wood Reservoir is another important feature in this water-rich landscape, supplying water to Wakefield. Like its larger neighbour, it was completed around the same time, in 1971.

• A Complex Water System: Looking out over Booth Wood, you get a sense of the complex network of reservoirs in this area, catching the water from the high moors and channelling it down to the towns and cities of West Yorkshire. It's a reminder that this scenic expanse is also a crucial utility landscape, quietly sustaining the lives of hundreds of thousands of people.

A Village Beneath the Water

Perhaps the most fascinating detail of all lies beneath the surface of Scammonden Water. The reservoir's creation required a significant sacrifice: the valley floor was once home to the small village of Deanhead.

When the valley was flooded, most of the village's structures were demolished. However, the old Deanhead Church was spared and converted into what is now the local sailing club headquarters, sitting on the reservoir's edge—a tangible connection to the community that was displaced. Imagine the history held within the silent water, with the roar of the M62 overhead creating a truly unique historical contrast.

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Scammonden is more than just a stop-off; it is a profound location that tells a story of:

• Natural Beauty: The enduring wildness of the Pennines.

• Human Endeavor: The audacity and scale of its civil engineering.

• Lost History: The ghost of the village that sleeps beneath the dam.

Your photos from that August evening perfectly capture this three-part harmony. It's a place that commands attention, making you pause and appreciate the layers of life, nature, and engineering piled one atop the other.

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All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.

Ibiza's Silent Sentinels: The Pirate Towers and a History of Invasion

Ibiza, the jewel of the Mediterranean, evokes images of sun-drenched beaches and vibrant nightlife. But beneath the modern allure lies a rich and turbulent past, etched into the very landscape itself. Long before the era of dance clubs and celebrity DJs, Ibiza's strategic location made it a coveted prize, a crossroads for trade and, unfortunately, a target for invaders and pirates.

The island's position, nestled between Europe and Africa, meant it was a natural stopping point for seafaring travellers. This, however, came at a cost. The fertile soils, abundant salt reserves (a highly prized commodity), and the island's harvests attracted the attention of those seeking to plunder. The dispersed population, spread across the island, made it difficult to defend, leaving them vulnerable to raids. Many captured islanders were tragically sold into slavery, a dark chapter in Ibiza's history.

In response to this constant threat, the Ibizan people began to develop a system of coastal lookouts. From high vantage points, they could monitor the horizon for approaching ships, offering a vital early warning. Over time, these simple lookouts evolved into the formidable pirate towers, or "torres de defensa," that still dot the island's coastline today.

The 16th century marked a turning point, with the construction of fortified towers around the main population centers: Ibiza Town, San Antonio, and Santa Eulalia. By the 18th century, approximately 15 of these towers stood guard, including the iconic tower at Portinatx. These structures were more than just watchtowers; they were fortified shelters, stocked with muskets, shot, gunpowder, and small cannons.

Their design reflected the constant threat of attack. The entrances were typically situated about 10 feet above ground level, accessible only by rope ladders, which could be quickly retracted in times of danger. This high access point also allowed defenders to pour boiling water or oil onto attackers attempting to scale the walls, a brutal but effective deterrent. Some towers boasted walls up to 10 feet thick, making them incredibly resilient. Remarkably, no tower was ever successfully captured in a direct assault.

Communication was crucial. During the day, smoke signals relayed warnings across the island, while at night, fires served the same purpose. These signals allowed the islanders to mobilize their defenses and prepare for incoming threats.

While many of these towers have undergone restoration, they are largely closed to the public, with access limited to the exterior areas. This measure was taken to protect the historical structures from vandalism, a sad reality that has plagued many of these sites. Furthermore, the towers have unfortunately become associated with sombre tales of ritual suicides, adding to the reasons for restricted access.

The photographs accompanying this blog post, taken in July 2014 with a Polaroid is2132 bridge camera, capture the silent majesty of these historical sentinels. They stand as a testament to the resilience and resourcefulness of the Ibizan people, a reminder of a time when the island's beauty was shadowed by the constant threat of invasion.

These towers, now silent guardians of the coastline, offer a glimpse into Ibiza's complex and often overlooked past. They stand as a poignant reminder that the island's story is far richer and more nuanced than the modern image of a party paradise. They are a tangible link to a time when survival depended on vigilance and fortitude, a time when the islanders stood together against the tides of history.

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Portinatx, Ibiza's Hidden Gem

Ibiza is known for its vibrant nightlife, but the island also has a quieter side, with many hidden coves and beaches perfect for relaxation. Portinatx is one such gem, a small resort on the island's north coast that offers a laid-back atmosphere and stunning scenery. 

What to do in Portinatx 

• Relax on the beach. Portinatx has two main beaches, S'Arenal and Xarraca, both of which are small and sheltered. The sand is soft, and the water is crystal clear, making them perfect for swimming and sunbathing. 

• Go for a hike. There are several hiking trails in the area, including one that leads to the top of a cliff with panoramic views of the coast and another that follows the coast to the lighthouse at Far del Moscarter. 

• Explore the underwater world. There are several dive sites around Portinatx, which is home to a variety of marine life. 

Where to stay in Portinatx 

There are a few hotels and apartments in Portinatx, but most of the accommodation is in the form of villas and holiday homes. This makes Portinatx a great option for families and groups of friends who want their own space. 

How to get to Portinatx

The nearest airport to Portinatx is Ibiza Airport, which is about 30 minutes away by car. There are also regular buses from Ibiza Town to Portinatx and a regular boat service from the beach to a number of interesting locations on the island.

 

These pictures were taken in July 2014 using a Polaroid iS2132 digital camera. The pictures shown are of the town of Portinatx; the pictures I took of the pirate tower and lighthouse will feature in separate posts.

All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.