A Winter Ascent to Stoodley Pike

Towering over the Calder Valley, Stoodley Pike is more than just a hill overlooking the town of Todmorden, West Yorkshire. It's a monument, a beacon, a challenge, and a gateway to breathtaking panoramas. I recently embarked on my own Stoodley Pike adventure, and let me tell you, it was an experience of stunning vistas.

There are several routes to the summit, each offering its own unique charm. I opted for the Shaw Wood Road trail, starting from the A646 Burnley Road. The trail leaves Burnley Road almost immediately, crossing over the Rochdale Canal alongside Lock No. 15 Shawplains. The road winds through woodlands before reaching a housing estate at Lee Bottom Road, which runs eastward, offering glimpses of the imposing Pike as you ascend. The road steadily gains elevation, so be prepared for a good workout.

After conquering the final incline, the reward arrives. The 39-step spiral staircase beckons, leading you up another 40 feet to the balcony of the monument. A torch is highly recommended, as the narrow passage is often plunged in darkness, despite a grill that is meant to offer a light source.

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Views for Days

The views from the top are nothing short of magnificent. The hill, at a height of 1,300 feet, shows rolling fields in every direction, dotted with villages, reservoirs, and the distant Pennine peaks. On a clear day, you can even see Manchester and the Irish Sea! Take a deep breath, soak it all in, and let the sense of accomplishment wash over you.

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A Monument to History

Stoodley Pike is steeped in history, dating back to the Iron Age. Explore the monument's intriguing inscriptions and weathered stones, which whisper tales of the past. The original monument was built to commemorate the Napoleonic Wars and then rebuilt to remember the Crimean War.

Above the north-facing door, a faded inscription tells the story of the monument's creation and dramatic rebuilding:

STOODLEY PIKE A BEACON MONUMENT ERECTED BY PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION COMMENCED IN 1814 TO COMMEMORATE THE SURRENDER OF PARIS TO THE ALLIES AND FINISHED AFTER THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO WHEN PEACE WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1815. BY A STRANGE COINCIDENCE THE PIKE FELL ON THE DAY THE RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR LEFT LONDON BEFORE THE DECLARATION OF WAR WITH RUSSIA IN 1854. WAS REBUILT WHEN PEACE WAS RESTORED IN 1856. RESTORED AND LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR FIXED IN 1889.

This adventure to Stoodley Pike was a chilly one, but the light dusting of snow made the landscape even more beautiful. These pictures were taken on November 19, 2016, and really capture the unique atmosphere of the hike. It's a journey I won't soon forget.

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The path up to Stoodley Pike, the monument visible at the summit.

I think the snow clinging to the side of the structure gives the monument a completely different feel to its usual look.

The Calder Valley and beyond towards Lancashire, taken from the base of the monument.

Looking west away from the monument, I have always liked this picture as it's gives the impression the clouds will shortly fall over the edge of the hill.

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A Timeless Walk on the Rochdale Canal

There's something about a vintage photograph that adds a layer of timelessness, and when applied to the landscape of the Rochdale Canal, it feels like a journey back in time. On a crisp November day in 2013, I took a walk along the stretch between Mytholmroyd and Hebden Bridge, armed with a Samsung Galaxy tablet. The images I captured, edited to have a sepia-toned, aged look, seem to echo the long and storied history of this waterway.

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A Glimpse into the Past

This section of the canal is particularly beautiful, winding through the heart of the Calder Valley. The path is often muddy and strewn with autumn leaves, and the trees, stripped bare of their foliage, reveal the skeletal beauty of the landscape. As the path meanders, you pass under stone bridges, their arches a constant reminder of the 18th-century engineering that created this vital transport link. These bridges, with their worn brickwork and mossy undersides, look as though they have stood for centuries, watching the world change around them. The canal itself is a mirror, reflecting the grey sky and the surrounding hills. Lock 7, with its white-painted lock gates, stands out against the muted tones of the landscape, a functional and artistic focal point. You can almost imagine the sound of the locks creaking open and the rush of water as barges passed through, a scene that played out for generations.

Where Nature and Industry Meet

As you continue towards Hebden Bridge, the canal becomes more populated with boats. Moored narrowboats, their names and histories hidden from view, float peacefully on the water, adding a touch of colour to the otherwise monochromatic landscape. The scene, captured from a higher vantage point, shows the canal snaking through the trees, a ribbon of water connecting the villages of the valley. It's a striking image of how nature and human-made industry have coexisted for over two centuries.

A Photographic Journey

Using a tablet to create these vintage-style photos felt like a fascinating experiment. The editing process transformed the modern digital images into something that felt like a glimpse into a bygone era. It highlighted the enduring beauty of the Rochdale Canal, showing that while technology and life move on, some places retain a timeless quality that transcends the decades.

This walk from Mytholmroyd to Hebden Bridge isn't just a physical journey but a historical one, too. It’s a chance to see the landscape through a different lens and appreciate the stories etched into every stone, every lock, and every reflection on the water.

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Located a short distance from where Burnley Road crosses the canal, Lock 7 Broad Bottom is a Grade II listed structure. It was granted this status on June 21, 1984, and is situated near the former site of Walkley Clogs.

A classic shot of the peaceful Mayroyd Moorings in Hebden Bridge, taken from the historic Station Road Bridge overlooking the canal.

A view of the Broad Bottom Lane Bridge from Lock 7 in Mytholmroyd, a tranquil spot on the Rochdale Canal.

Bridge 12, Westfield Terrace Bridge, the canal had been drained for a stretch here, I can not remember why and for how far it stretched.

Mayroyd Bridge near the moorings at Hebden Bridge.

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Heptonstall's Twin Churches

Nestled high in the Pennine hills, the village of Heptonstall holds a unique and poignant secret: a single churchyard shared by two churches, both dedicated to St Thomas. This is a place where history isn't just recorded in books but stands in stone, side-by-side, creating a powerful dialogue between past and present. I visited on a day in July 2020 and was captivated by their intertwined story.

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The Church of St Thomas a Becket: The Enduring Ruin

The older of the two, the Church of St Thomas a Becket, was built between 1256 and 1260. For centuries, its robust stone walls were the heart of the community, bearing witness to generations of Heptonstall residents. Over time, it grew, with additions of two naves, aisles, chantry chapels, and a striking tower that once commanded the skyline.

But in 1847, a violent storm left the church in a state of disrepair. The damage was so severe that the community decided to build a new church rather than repair the old one. Yet, the old church was not forgotten. Today, its ruins stand as a powerful and beautiful monument. The roofless nave, with its arched windows framing the sky, invites quiet contemplation. The crumbling walls, now open to the elements, are a testament to the passage of time. A poignant silence fills the space, occasionally broken by the murmur of visitors or the rustle of the wind. The ruins are more than just a historical site; they are an active part of the village's identity. The carefully maintained grounds and the way the ruins are open to the public create a tangible link to the past. It's a place where history is alive, and occasional open-air services breathe new life into the ancient stones.

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The Church of St Thomas the Apostle: The New Heart of the Village

Rising majestically beside the ruins stands its replacement, the Church of St Thomas the Apostle, completed in 1854. This Victorian Gothic masterpiece presents a stark contrast to its ruined predecessor. Its detailed architecture, soaring spire, and intricate stained-glass windows are a beacon of hope and resilience. The new church is a vibrant community hub, offering regular services and hosting events like the Pennine Spring Music Festival. The light filtering through the colorful stained glass creates an ethereal atmosphere, filling the space with stories told in vibrant hues. The clock face on the tower is a constant, ticking presence, a modern-day anchor to the timeless rhythm of the village.

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A Shared Resting Place

The churchyard itself is as significant as the buildings it holds. It is a shared burial ground for both churches and a final resting place for many who shaped the village's story. Among the weathered gravestones, you'll find the resting place of renowned American poet Sylvia Plath, a fact that draws literary pilgrims from around the world. The graveyard is also home to the grave of David Hartley, leader of the infamous Cragg Vale Coiners, adding another layer of intrigue to this historic ground. The twin churches of Heptonstall are a powerful reminder of how communities adapt and endure. They are a living museum, a spiritual home, and a testament to the village's rich and complex history. Walking between the two buildings, you can feel the centuries of stories and lives that have passed through this remarkable place.

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The Parish Church of St Thomas the Apostle. The graveyard which surrounds both churches is said to hold the remains of over 100000. This burial ground was closed to new interments in 1915 and a new one opened nearby on land gifted by Gamaliel Sutcliffe.

The remains of the Parish Church of St Thomas a Becket.

The new church pictured from the doorway of the old church.

The pinnacle struck by lightening in 1875, stands outside the church as a monument to the night it fell from the tower.

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Todmorden: Where History Meets the Hills

Todmorden, a town steeped in history and surrounded by the stunning Pennine landscape, offers a unique blend of urban charm and natural beauty. On a chilly January morning, I ventured out to explore a couple of its most iconic spots, and the crisp, clear air only added to the atmosphere.

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Water Street: A Cobbled Canvas

My journey began on Water Street, a quiet cobbled lane that seems to have a story to tell with every stone. The street is lined with historic buildings, their stone facades and large windows hinting at a past life of industry and community. With the morning sky a deep blue and the lamplight just beginning to fade, the street felt like a movie set—a perfect moment of stillness before the town awoke. The spire of a church in the distance and a sliver of the moon overhead completed the picture, a reminder of the timeless beauty that can be found in everyday places.

The Golden Lion: A Timeless Landmark

Just a stone's throw from Water Street, I found The Golden Lion. A classic pub that stands as a testament to Todmorden's rich heritage. Its weathered stone and distinctive signage beckon you in, promising warmth and good cheer. Even from the outside, the pub’s character is undeniable. The contrast between the rough stone of the building and the bright, moss-covered porch tells a story of years gone by. The Golden Lion isn't just a pub; it's a piece of Todmorden's soul, a place where people have gathered for generations.

Todmorden is a town that invites you to slow down and notice the details. From the historic cobbles of Water Street to the timeless appeal of The Golden Lion, every corner holds a piece of its past, waiting to be discovered. Whether you're a history buff, a lover of architecture, or simply looking for a quiet place to wander, Todmorden is a destination that truly delivers.

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Please take a moment to share this post, follow me on social media, and explore my work on Clickasnap and Photo4Me using the links below. Your support means a lot!

All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.