Exploring the Pennine Charm: A Walk Along the Rochdale Canal from Bottomley to Walsden

 The Rochdale Canal is often described as one of the most spectacular waterways in the United Kingdom. Carving its way through the rugged backbone of England, it offers a dramatic blend of industrial heritage and breathtaking natural beauty. Today, we’re narrowing our focus to a particularly serene and photogenic stretch: the journey between Bottomley Lock (Lock 33) and Bridge 36, just outside the village of Walsden.

Whether you are a seasoned "gongoozler" (the canal-side term for someone who enjoys watching life on the water) or a weekend hiker looking for a peaceful escape, this section of the canal captures the essence of the South Pennines.

The pictures were taken with a Nikon d3300 on the 27th August 2019.

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Starting at Bottomley: Where Engineering Meets Tranquillity

Our journey begins at Bottomley Lock (Lock 33). As you stand by the heavy timber gates, you can’t help but feel the weight of history. Completed in 1804, the Rochdale Canal was the first of the three trans-Pennine canals to be fully opened, and it remains a testament to the grit of the Georgian engineers who designed it.

At Bottomley, the canal is framed by lush, manicured gardens and charming stone-built cottages that look as though they’ve grown directly out of the hillside. The contrast between the dark, still water and the vibrant green of the Pennine slopes is a photographer’s dream. The lock itself is a hive of rhythmic activity when a narrowboat passes through—the winding of paddles, the rush of water, and the slow creak of the gates are the only sounds that break the silence of the valley.

The Life of a Lock-Keeper’s Cottage

One of the most striking features near Lock 33 is the beautifully maintained canal-side architecture. These stone buildings once housed the men who managed the water levels and ensured the smooth passage of coal and wool. Today, they serve as enviable private residences, their windows reflecting the passing clouds and the occasional flash of a kingfisher’s wing.

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The Gentle Meander Toward Sands Lock

Leaving Bottomley behind, the towpath leads you toward Sands Lock (Lock 32) and Lightbank Lock (Lock 31). This stretch of the canal is remarkably peaceful. To your left, the hills rise steeply, dotted with sheep and crisscrossed by ancient dry-stone walls. To your right, the canal reflects the sky, creating a sense of double-layered serenity.

As you walk, you’ll notice the distinctive "horse-leaping" blocks and the worn grooves in the stonework where towropes once pulled heavy barges laden with goods. It’s easy to imagine the clatter of hooves and the shouts of boatmen echoing through this valley over two hundred years ago.

Nature’s Takeover

While the canal was built for industry, nature has since reclaimed it. This section is a haven for local wildlife. Keep an eye out for:

• Herons: Often found standing perfectly still on the bank, waiting for a meal.

• Wildflowers: In the summer, the banks are bursting with yellow tansy, purple loosestrife, and foxgloves.

• Narrowboats: The "wandering homes" of the canal. The bright reds and greens of a passing boat provide a wonderful splash of colour against the earthy tones of the Pennines.

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Approaching Bridge 36 and Walsden

As the path continues toward Bridge 36, the landscape begins to open up. Bridge 36 is a classic gritstone arch, a sturdy piece of functional art that has survived the elements for centuries. It marks a transition point where the wilder parts of the canal begin to approach the outskirts of Walsden.

Looking through the arch of Bridge 36, you get a framed view of the canal stretching onward. The water here is often incredibly still, acting as a mirror for the surrounding woodland. It’s a place that invites you to slow down, take a seat on a nearby bench or a lock beam, and simply breathe in the fresh Pennine air.

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Why This Stretch is Perfect for a Day Out

The walk from Bottomley to Bridge 36 is relatively flat and well-surfaced, making it accessible for families, dog walkers, and cyclists. Because this area is slightly removed from the busier hubs of Hebden Bridge or Todmorden, you can often enjoy the path in near-solitude.

Travel Tips for Your Visit:

1. Wear Sturdy Shoes: While the towpath is generally good, Pennine weather can be unpredictable. A waterproof pair of walking shoes is always a good idea.

2. Bring a Camera: From the reflections in the water to the architectural details of the locks, there is a "wow" moment around every corner.

3. Respect the Water: Remember that the canal is a living environment. Stay on the towpath and give way to boaters and cyclists.

4. Local Sustenance: Once you reach Walsden, there are local spots to grab a brew or a bite to eat before heading back or continuing your journey toward Todmorden.

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Final Thoughts

The Rochdale Canal between Bottomley Lock and Bridge 36 isn't just a path; it's a corridor through time. It reminds us of an era when the world moved at 4 miles per hour—the speed of a walking horse. In our modern, fast-paced world, there is something deeply healing about matching that pace, even just for an afternoon.

The hills of the Calder Valley provide a dramatic backdrop to a waterway that is both rugged and delicate. Whether the sun is glinting off the ripples or a low mist is clinging to the hillsides, this stretch of the canal near Walsden remains one of the North’s best-kept secrets.

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The Summit Tunnel Eastern Portal

 Today, I found myself at a place where history and engineering meet nature's wild beauty: the eastern portal of the Summit Tunnel, nestled just outside of Walsden. It’s a spot that, at first glance, is simply a picturesque railway cutting framed by lush greenery and the dramatic Pennine hills. But looking closer, and listening to the low rumble of a passing train, you can feel the weight of its incredible history.

The series of photos I captured tells a small story of this location. From the first glimpse of the tunnel's mouth hidden amongst the trees to the powerful sight of a train emerging from its darkness, and even a peek at the intricate brickwork of the portal itself. The images show a train heading towards the tunnel, and then moments later, another view captures a different train heading away from it. This constant movement is a testament to the tunnel's enduring legacy as a vital artery of the UK's railway network.

The Summit Tunnel is not just any old railway passage; it's a colossal piece of Victorian engineering. When it was opened in 1841, it was the longest railway tunnel in the world, stretching an incredible 2,885 yards (about 2.6 kilometers) beneath the Pennine hills. It was a groundbreaking achievement of its time, a key part of the Manchester and Leeds Railway that connected these two great industrial cities.

The construction itself was a monumental effort. Digging through solid rock and battling difficult geological conditions, the engineers and navvies of the era faced immense challenges. The tunnel was built with a series of vertical shafts to aid in the excavation, and the sheer scale of the work is hard to comprehend today.

Looking at the photo of the tunnel's brickwork, you can see the craftsmanship that has stood the test of time. The arches and the meticulously laid bricks are a silent monument to the people who built it. The railway lines themselves, shining in the daylight, lead the eye into the deep, dark mouth of the tunnel, a gateway to a different world.

Even today, as I stood on the bridge overlooking the tracks, the sight of a train disappearing into the tunnel or bursting out from it feels special. It’s a connection to the past, a link between the bustling cities and the serene countryside. This tunnel has seen the age of steam, the transition to diesel, and now modern trains continue to use it, carrying passengers and goods through the heart of the Pennines.

It's a reminder that beneath our feet and under our landscapes lie incredible feats of engineering that have shaped our country. The Summit Tunnel is more than just a route; it’s a living piece of history, a testament to human ingenuity, and a stunning landmark hidden in plain sight.

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Walking the Rochdale Canal from Walsden to Todmorden

In the heart of Northern England, winding through valleys and past old mill towns, lies the Rochdale Canal. More than just a waterway, it's a testament to the region's industrial heritage, a ribbon of water that once powered the economy and has since been reborn as a haven for walkers and nature lovers. Completed in 1804, this historic canal once served as a vital trade route, connecting the bustling hubs of Sowerby Bridge and Manchester.

For a time, the canal fell into disuse and disrepair, officially closing in 1952. Sections became overgrown, and some were even filled in, a quiet echo of the end of an era. But thanks to a dedicated restoration effort, the canal was fully reopened in 2002, giving new life to this historic corridor.

Inspired by this story of rebirth, I took a walk along a particularly scenic stretch of the canal in November 2013, trekking approximately 1.5 miles from Walsden to Todmorden. The photos, taken on a Samsung Galaxy Tablet, capture the essence of a tranquil autumn day on the towpath.

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A Walk Through Autumn

The journey revealed a landscape painted in the golden hues of autumn. The canal waters, a deep, reflective blue, mirrored the clear sky and the scattered clouds. Along the banks, fallen leaves created a vibrant carpet of gold and red, rustling underfoot.

The walk passes a number of fascinating landmarks. Pinnel Lock 26 and Smithyholm Lock 25 are working relics of the canal's past, their weathered stone and wooden gates standing strong against the flow of time. Further along, the towering Gauholme Railway Viaduct looms over the canal, a striking black-and-white image that shows the intersection of two different transport histories.

The path also winds through the charming village of Walsden, where the spire of St. Peter's Church rises elegantly above the trees and rooftops, a quiet sentinel watching over the canal. The walk ends as you approach Todmorden, with the canal curving past old mill buildings, their red brick and stone a warm contrast to the green and gold of the surrounding hills.

Along the way, I stumbled upon a curious, carved stone chair, a unique piece of art that invites walkers to pause and reflect on the journey. This simple seat embodies the spirit of the canal today: a place of peace, reflection, and quiet beauty.

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Gauxholme Viaduct

Pinnel Lock

Smithyholm Lock

Walsden from the canal, St Peter's Church seen in the distance.

This stone chair was near Gauxholme Locks, no idea if it is still there.

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A Glimpse Through Time: Exploring Northern England's Past, Brotton, Skipton and Walsden

 Ever wonder what life was like in your local village decades or even centuries ago? There's something truly captivating about seeing old photographs and postcards that transport you back in time. I've been diving into my collection of images, both personally taken and carefully gathered, to create a series of video slideshows that offer a unique look at three distinct Northern English locations.

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Brotton: From Domesday to Decline

First up, we travel to Brotton, a village nestled in the borough of Redcar and Cleveland. With a history stretching back before the 1086 Domesday Book – its name literally meaning "Brook Farm" – Brotton holds centuries of stories within its ancient boundaries.

Today, Brotton has a population of around 5,400, a significant decrease from its peak. This decline directly correlates with the fading of its once-thriving ironstone mining industry. The early 20th century saw a downturn, and by 1954, the last mine had closed its doors. The images in this slideshow are a fascinating mix of collected postcards and public domain treasures, offering a visual narrative of Brotton's past.

Skipton: A Market Town's Enduring Charm

Next, we journey to Skipton, a bustling market town in North Yorkshire. Home to approximately 14,600 residents, Skipton is a hub of activity, intersected by the River Aire, the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, and the Airedale Railway Line.

My slideshow of Skipton is another collection built from vintage postcards I've gathered over time. These images capture the essence of a vibrant market town, showcasing its enduring charm and how its key transportation routes have shaped its development.

Walsden: A West Yorkshire Village with Lancashire Roots

Finally, we head to Walsden, a village in the Metropolitan Borough of Calderdale, West Yorkshire. With a population of roughly 5,200, Walsden is characterized by the flow of Walsden Water (which feeds into the River Calder), the Rochdale Canal, and the A6033 Rochdale Road. It even boasts its own railway station on the Caldervale Line.

What's particularly interesting about Walsden is its historical identity. While it's now firmly part of West Yorkshire, it was once historically part of Lancashire and administered by Rochdale Corporation. Unlike the other two slideshows, all the pictures in the Walsden video were taken by me in August 2017, offering a more contemporary, yet still reflective, look at the village.

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St Peter's Church, Walsden

Nestled amidst the picturesque landscape, visible from the tranquil waters of the Rochdale Canal, stands the elegant spire of St. Peter's Church in Walsden. A silent sentinel, it marks a spot steeped in history, resilience, and community spirit. I first encountered this striking landmark on a canal-side stroll back on August 27th, 2017, its distinctive outline drawing me in for a closer look at the locked-up grounds. What I uncovered about its past is a testament to both grand Victorian ambition and the enduring power of local devotion.

The "Million Pound Church" Legacy: A National Endeavour

St. Peter's Church, which first opened its doors on August 7th, 1848, was no ordinary parish church. It was part of a remarkable national initiative – the "Million Pound Churches." This ambitious project was born from the 1820 Church Building Act, a parliamentary response to the rapid industrialisation and urban growth that had left many burgeoning towns, like Walsden, with inadequate places of worship.

Imagine the foresight: an act of parliament, financed by a blend of government and public funds, dedicated to addressing the spiritual needs of a changing nation. These churches, though often built to very tight budgets, were designed to be beacons of faith in newly developing communities. St. Peter's stands as a tangible link to this fascinating chapter in British social and architectural history.

A Foundation of Generosity and a Spire of Distinction

The very genesis of St. Peter's Church speaks of local philanthropy. The foundation stone was proudly laid in July 1846 by John Crossley, a man whose generosity extended to donating the very land upon which the church would rise. It's a reminder that even grand national schemes often relied on the vital contributions of individuals.

Sixteen years after its initial opening, in 1864, a significant architectural addition graced the church: its magnificent spire. This elegant structure, now a Grade II listed building, is not just a beautiful piece of design; it holds a profound significance. As fate would have it, it is virtually all that remains of the original edifice after a devastating event.

The Fiery Trial of 1948: A Community Rises

The year 1948, exactly a century after its grand opening, brought an unimaginable tragedy to St. Peter's. In May of that year, a fierce fire ravaged much of the building, destroying countless irreplaceable elements, including its beautiful windows. In a poignant detail, the church clock remarkably continued to function throughout the blaze, even striking midnight as the inferno raged. It's a vivid image, a symbol of time marching on even in the face of immense destruction.

Adding to the heartache, the church lacked adequate insurance – a common vulnerability for many public buildings of that era. This meant that the task of rebuilding fell squarely on the shoulders of the local community and the dedicated parishioners. And rise they did! Through incredible collective effort, fundraising drives, and an unwavering commitment, the people of Walsden pieced their beloved church back together. It's a powerful narrative of resilience, a testament to how adversity can forge an even stronger sense of community. On March 10th, 1956, after years of painstaking work and tireless fundraising, St. Peter's Church was proudly re-consecrated, reborn from its ashes.

A Lingering Legacy

Today, the spire of St. Peter's Church continues to grace the Walsden skyline, a beacon of history, a monument to a national initiative, and a powerful symbol of local determination. My own encounter with it from the Rochdale Canal was just a brief snapshot, but the story behind its walls, and indeed its very survival, is one that speaks volumes about faith, community, and the enduring spirit of a place. It reminds us that even seemingly quiet architectural landmarks often hold a rich tapestry of human stories, waiting to be discovered.

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Exploring Walsden: A Station Through Time

Walsden Railway Station, nestled amidst the dramatic Pennine landscape, might seem like a quiet outpost today, but its history is a fascinating tapestry woven with tales of Victorian ambition, wartime drama, and modern resurgence. Though now firmly in West Yorkshire, Walsden's railway story began when it was still part of Lancashire, a testament to the ever-shifting administrative boundaries that define our regions.

A Glimpse into the Past: The Original Station (1845-1961)

The very first Walsden station opened its doors in 1845, a product of the burgeoning railway era that connected communities and fuelled industrial growth. For over a century, it served the village, a vital link for passengers and goods. However, the post-war economic austerity of the early 1960s brought about widespread railway closures, and Walsden, sadly, was not spared. In August 1961, the station shut its doors for good, and the physical structures were swiftly demolished, leaving behind only echoes of its past.

Yet, a tangible piece of that original station endures: a sturdy metal footbridge, erected in 1890. This venerable structure, now providing a crucial connection between the platforms of the current station, is a silent witness to a bygone era. It's a poignant reminder that while buildings may fall, some elements, built with Victorian longevity in mind, can transcend generations. The original station itself was located to the west of this footbridge, stretching towards the entrance of the impressive Winterbutlee Tunnel.

A Troubled Crossing and a Wartime Bombing

The original station also featured a level crossing, a common feature of early railways but one that often brought its own dangers. Indeed, Walsden's crossing was, regrettably, the scene of several injuries and even deaths. The removal of this crossing paved the way for the current station's construction, a move that undoubtedly improved safety for both railway users and local residents.

Perhaps one of the most surprising anecdotes from Walsden's railway past is its unfortunate distinction as the only place in the greater Todmorden area to be bombed during the Second World War. While details are scarce in the provided text, this tidbit hints at the far-reaching impact of the conflict, even on seemingly remote Pennine communities.

Adding to the station's ongoing challenges, a stream runs directly underneath the station, close to the iron bridge. This natural feature, while picturesque, has a less charming side effect: during heavy rains, the station and the line are prone to flooding, a persistent battle against the elements for Network Rail and station users alike.

The Rebirth: Walsden's Current Station (1990-Present)

After nearly three decades of dormancy, Walsden Railway Station was reborn. In September 1990, a new station opened its platforms a few metres east of the original site. This resurgence was a testament to the growing recognition of the importance of local rail links, connecting communities and offering sustainable transport options.

Today, Walsden is an unstaffed station, characteristic of many smaller stops on the network. While facilities are limited to small shelters for protection from the notoriously unpredictable Pennine weather, modern conveniences have been introduced. Electronic information boards keep passengers updated, and ticket machines provide easy access to fares.

The station's viability is clear in its passenger figures. In 2017-18, Walsden averaged approximately 2,100 passengers per week, a healthy number for a village station and a strong indicator of its continued value to the community.

Winterbutlee Tunnel: A Feat of Victorian Engineering

No discussion of Walsden Railway Station would be complete without mentioning the impressive Winterbutlee Tunnel. Located to the west of the station, this 279-metre long tunnel is a remarkable feat of Victorian engineering. It was opened by the Manchester & Leeds Railway Company in 1841, a crucial component of the line that completed the connection between Todmorden and Littleborough. The tunnel stands as a permanent monument to the ambition and skill of the railway pioneers who carved routes through the challenging Pennine terrain.

A Photographer's Eye: Capturing Walsden

The provided information also gives us a glimpse into the art of capturing the station. The accompanying pictures, taken on August 27th, 2017, with a Nikon D3300 camera, offer a specific date and equipment detail. This reminds us that beyond the historical facts and figures, these locations are also subjects of contemporary interest, inspiring photographers to document their beauty and utility.

Walsden Railway Station, therefore, is more than just a stop on the line. It's a microcosm of railway history, a resilient survivor of closures, and a vital link in the modern transport network. From its Victorian origins to its present-day operations, it stands as a testament to the enduring power of the railways to connect people and shape landscapes.

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Manchester direction, the bridge is all that remains of the original station, it was built in 1890. Winterbuttlee Tunnel can be seen beyond.

Winterbuttlee Tunnel from the 1890 Bridge. The original Walsden Station was sighted near the tunnels entrance.

The 1890 metal footbridge is all that remains of the original station at Walsden. There used to be a level crossing where the gate is.

British Rail Class 144 Pacer train at the Leeds bound platform 2.

The steps up and over the 1890 bridge.

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All the pictures remain the copyright of Colin Green.